This is how you can be part of your own trophy's process and save a Lil extra $$.
First have your skull and or bones beetled to remove all flesh which will cost only a fraction of a full job being done..We charge $40.00 for just a deer skull to be bugged, Skinned by you.
Now after your skull/item/trophy has been cleaned and free of all flesh ext. next comes the degrease period which is longest process of all when working with skulls and or bones.
If you have a little extra time in your schedule each week you can do this part by yourself and get a little hands on experience with how the degrease and whitening process work.
What you need to degrease your skull is just plain old dawn dish liquid. Plus you will need a container (plastic shoe box) like the ones they sell at the dollar stores or your big box stores.
Now lets say your going to degrease a buck skull, put the skull into the new plastic container and add about 1/8 to 1/4 cup of dawn dish soap, then fill the rest of the container to cover the skull with warm or hot tap water.
Now for the first couple weeks you will change out the water a few times a week as it will get very dirty/cloudy quickly. Now after about 3-4 weeks the water will start staying clear alot longer. Only change out the water when it gets cloudy/dirty.
Always use warm/hot tap water when changing your water. Now after about 3-4 months you can try to whiten your skull and also see if it is truly finished degreasing.
For the whitening process at your home, you will want to use 3% peroxide which you can also get at almost any store and is the standard peroxide in the little brown bottle.
*Do not use bleach as it will destroy the skull/bone.
To whiten the skull without whitening the antlers look at the picture below and see how i use cotton balls around the top of the skull to whiten it.
Just fill your plastic shoe box "pictured below" about 3/4 full with peroxide and use cotton balls on top the skull, wet the Cotton from time to time with peroxide.
You can use a table spoon to scoop up the peroxide and pour it onto the cotton balls from time to time.
Remember when first pouring the peroxide in onto the skull the peroxide will foam up, so be carefull and take it slow when filling the container with the skull in, you don't want the peroxide getting onto antler burrs or antlers for any length of time as it will whiten them.
Now after about 1 week or so in the 3% Peroxide, the job should be done and you'll know if the skull or bones have been degreased properly when it dries out.
You can set the skull in the direct sun using a window in your house/garage and it will help dry and whiten the skull out. Put the skull onto the lid which came with your plastic shoe box to catch any excess peroxide while setting in the window..
After drying out and If it does look like the skull has been degreased and whitened to your liking, its time to seal coat the skull/bones etc.
You can use Elmer's glue diluted down with water about 50/50, just paint on with small hobby brush let dry and your done. Then Mount to panel if desired.
There you have it, a fairly simple and easy way to degrease and whiten a skull, proven to work with given time. Also dont forget to always wear eye protection when working with any chemicals.